Delhi sightseeing adventure

Saturday, March 6
 

We had been in India already a week, and we had already seen the Taj Mahal. I didn’t think much could top the amazing sites and experiences we had seen so far. But Delhi definitely delivered some incredible attractions of its own! We had our first full day to enjoy the sites of Delhi and first off was Qutub Minar. At 72.5 meters, this tower is the world’s tallest brick minaret. It stands among ruins of ancient Hindu and Jain temples, whose stones were used to build the minaret and surrounding complex. With the combination of styles across the centuries and with various rulers’ and architects’ influences, one can see from the Qutub Minar’s Indo-Islamic architecture why this Indian version of the Tower of Pisa is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Delhi.

Next stop was a Bahai Temple aptly named the Lotus Temple. Amidst the bustling city of Delhi was a clear open space crowned by one of the most delicate and serene compositions that seemed to blossom out of nowhere. There was a meditative quiet that hung in the air as people took the pilgrimage-like walk across the grounds up to the temple. We were greeted by a handful of volunteers who blessed us as we approached and told us of the Bahai credo of oneness of all religions and mankind. Not knowing much about the Bahai faith, I was struck by the peaceful tranquility that the Lotus Temple and its surroundings exuded. No cameras were allowed inside so as to protect the silence and inner sanctity of the space—something I appreciated as I sat in wonder staring at the ceiling and enjoying how the simple lotus structure seemed to envelop me as I sat alone with my thoughts in the pews. It made me want to learn more about the Bahai fath—after all, what’s not to appreciate about a religion that believes in the equality and oneness of all people? 
 

As the sun began to set, we ended up at Humayun’s Tomb—a complex of buildings built as the Mughal Emperor Humayun’s Tomb in 1562 CE. A beautiful mausoleum that was apparently the model for the Taj Mahal, Humayun’s Tomb is one of the first structures to use red sandstone at such a scale. The giant red building houses the tombs of Humayun and his wife as well as several other subsequent Mughals. I could definitely see where the Taj Mahal got its inspiration, and while this complex was not quite as spectacular, it definitely held its own.

Sarah Silverman

Meeting with Sadanand Dhunne, Journalist

Saturday, March 6

It was fascinating to meet with Sadanand Dhunne for dinner. I had heard about his book "My Friend the Fanatic", which details his relationship over time with a fundamental Islamist in Indonesia, home to the largest Muslim population in the world. Moreover, I was very eager to hear his thoughts on the Muslim population in India and whether he believed that Islamic fundamentalism was or was becoming a problem in the country.

Historically, India prides itself as having "no anti-Semitism" within its borders, and I was curious whether this was still true and whether India was somehow immune to the radicalism growing in neighboring countries, such as Pakistan. Sadly, Mr. Dhumme worried that India was not immune, and that radicalism had started to invade its borders.

Mr. Dhunne was very engaging, smart, and eloquent, answered all of our questions, and raised a lot of new questions for me. I hope to bring him to speak at AJC in the future. I will certainly read his book and very much look forward to the publication of his next book, which is on Islamic fundamentalism in India.

Naomi Reinharz

Chabad House
Monday, March 1

The wall immediately across the way should have prepared me for what I would see inside. The bullet-ridden facade with its stark condemnation of the attacks that took place there on November 26th, 2008, was a mirror image to the flimsy white piece of paper that barely hung on the wall across from it in front of the Chabad house informing visitors that Chabad Mumbai was temporarily operating at another location.

Four guards watched us carefully as we were met by a member of the Indian Jewish community outside the entrance to the building and given a brief overview of how the Jewish community responded to the terrible events that happened there. Shortly thereafter we were met by some Chabad representatives newly off the airplane from Canada just a few days earlier.

With no permanent Chabad rabbis in place in Mumbai since the attacks, a rotating cycle of willing volunteers come to hold down the fort for a couple of weeks or months at a time before a new Rabbi comes to make Mumbai home.

As the new recruits led us up the stairs to give us the play-by-play of events that took place on 26-11 (the widely-used and all-encompassing title of the Mumbai attacks, much like our 9-11), it was clear that, although these volunteers were not physically there to witness the events they were speaking about, they were schooled very quickly upon their arrival on every detail of the tragedy in order to pass on every memory to each visitor that comes through.

They walked us floor to floor recalling who was hiding where and when, pointing out who was shot where, and recounting how this person managed to escape. They painted a picture for us of who was sleeping where, who was eating in one room, and who was praying in another. At some point the descriptions were too graphic and I peeled away from the group to let my eyes tell me as much as I needed to know.

I felt guilty taking pictures of what seemed to be such hallowed ground. And yet, it seemed from our hosts that they urged us to take in every detail so as not to forget and to pass on to the world what they consider the martyrdom to have occurred there. So I walked from room to room taking note - mostly of how the bullets holes seemed to be everywhere - the floor, the walls, the ceilings. Inescapable.

The cheery, bright blue of baby Moishe’s room mocked the viewer who knew all too well what atrocities took place just feet away.

Next door, my heart skipped a beat as I saw the collection of shoes of Moishe’s parents, the revered Rabbi and his wife, still lined up in a messy arrangement on their shoe tree in the corner of their room. Untouched and now collecting dust. I couldn’t bring myself to snap the shot. As we made our way to the top floor and on to the roof, it was hard to imagine the police snipers exchanging fire with the attackers in what seemed like such a normal, residential neighborhood.

It was remarkable that the Chabad house, up until 26-11, existed so easily and peacefully among its Indian neighbors, much like, as we had been learning, how the larger Jewish Indian community exists throughout India.

As our Chabad volunteers kept reminding us about the sacrifice of Rabbi Gavriel and Rivka Holtzberg, in addition to the 4 others who perished in the House, I had to remind myself that this was a tragedy for all of India and not just the Jews.

Over 164 were killed throughout Mumbai overall. And yet, as we stood back on the bottom floor being shown pictures of the Chabad victims and lighting candles in their memory, it was hard not to feel the weight and palpable sadness that the attack symbolized for us as Jews.

Our tour guides had dutifully done their job of leaving us with an imprint of the horror that took place there — the image of an empty baby swing, sitting innocently in its place amongst the rubble, had been seared into my memory.

Sarah Silverman

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I was eager to visit the Chabad House in Mumbai. Before my trip, many of my friends asked me if we were going to India in order to commemorate the 26/11 attacks in Mumbai by Pakistani terrorists, and I told them that that was only part of it. Of course, being in India one year after the attacks, it was important to visit the places that were affected and where innocent people were killed, and to show that terrorism did not deter Americans from coming to India.

We therefore went to the Taj Hotel, the Gateway of India, and the Chabad House. Seeing the Chabad House was truly moving -- those who run it have not changed a thing since 26/11. The family's belongings, the hangings on the wall, the toys -- nothing has moved. There are bullet holes everywhere and an eeriness on every floor.

Chabad has now built a temporary home in a new, safer location. But witnessing the aftermath of this tragedy was not the only reason we traveled halfway around the world. We wanted to learn about and support the Jewish community. We wanted to promote the U.S.-India-Israel relationship. We wanted to meet with people in the media, technology, political, non-profit, think tank, and education fields. We wanted to see the country's many beautiful, historic sites. It is important to mourn the victims of the attacks, to live by the phrase "Never Again", and to continue to support Indian democracy by visiting this beautiful country.

Naomi Reinharz

US Embassy in New Delhi

Friday, March 5

After a whirlwind week of high level meetings, unbelievable sightseeing and daredevil bus adventures, we traveled to the US Embassy compound. We were all struck by the similarity of the embassy to the Kennedy Center in Washington, DC. It turns out that the same architect designed both buildings. After a brief tour of the beautiful grounds, we were invited to sit down with Uzra Zeya, the Minister Counselor for Political Affairs for the US Embassy in New Delhi, Sharon Gilkey, a Political Officer and another aid. Mrs. Zeya tells us about the five main points of U.S.-India Relations which include Strategic Cooperation; Energy and Climate Change; Education and Development; Economics, Trade and Agriculture; and Science, Technology, Health and Innovation. After she made general comments, we asked a variety of questions and were treated to an open and frank discussion about US-India relationship. After more than an hour of our back and forth, we had to cut the meeting short to head to our next meeting with the Jewish community of Delhi.

Jessica Gronich

Sunday in Mumbai

Elephanta Caves, Bollywood, Fashion Street and dinner with Jewish community members

Sunday, February 28

This morning we’re off to sea! An hour’s boat ride takes us to the Elephanta Caves, a large group of Hindu caves containing rock cut stone sculptures dedicated to the god Shiva. But before we can get to the caves, we are met with two exciting firsts. One is wild goats, cows and monkeys galore. The second are 200 stone steps to the caves lined with our first real exposure to shopping and bartering; and the prospect of being carried up said 200 steps by four willing and eager Indians on a throne-like contraption. No takers from our group today, fun as it seemed!! At the top, we are in awe. Carved-out columns in the side of the island invite us into the cave where gods have been intricately whittled into the stone some ten to fifteen hundred years earlier. We only make the round of one cave in an hour before we have to get back to the boat, but not before we do a little damage on the way back down the steps.

Far across town, we take a turn off the highway, down an alley and through the tall gate into a Bollywood studio. We are greeted by Ambika Hinduja, a powerhouse of the industry who along with her mother and sister make up the only all-women studio in the Mumbai Film Industry, the preferred moniker of Bollywood insiders. One of their head architects ushers us around the building to six different sets - three empty, three working and filming while we move through – all glorious.

After our tour we meet the Hinduja women for a very candid Q&A and if you close your eyes you swear you’re hearing your own mothers, aunts and grandmothers bickering, only with a lot more authority and knowledge of film.

We learn that a) comedy and drama sell, b) political movies rarely get past production, and c) you don’t mess with these women. They are funny and charming, and if Bollywood is anything like Hollywood you know there’s more to what they’re saying, but you don’t care, it’s too much fun.

We only have a few minutes before dinner, but we need white clothes for Holi so we stop at a Fashion Street (street market) to buy Indian clothes, probably some type of pajama pants and a tunic. Some of us have a flare for bartering, I definitely do not, so I stick with the group and hope we can cut some kind of mass deal. Most of us ladies find the same genie-type pant and feel we’ve found a fair price then go off on our own to find a top. The men unfortunately have slimmer pickin’s but everybody finds what they need.

We make our purchases just in time for dinner with members of Jewish community at South Indian vegetarian thali restaurant. We are joined by Mr. Sharon Galsurkar who is the director of the Jewish Education Resource Center at ORT India and Gabriel Ashtamkar, Welfare Executive, JDC-India (India office of the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee). Waiters bring each of us so many tasty treats each one spicier than the next, and just when we think dinner is over, it just begins. Each of us receives our own huge silver platter with every type of conceivable flavor, shape and color. Delicious! Once again we pose our Indian dinner companions with the same question “How is it possible that Indians remain so fit when they eat like this at every meal”!? We never get a satisfying answer, but the satisfying meals more than make up for it.

Jessica Gronich

Mumbai Tour

Saturday, February 27

We are working on limited sleep, the adrenaline of being half way across the world from home, and the food-induced coma of our first authentic Indian lunch provided by our amazing hosts at congregation Keneseth Eliyahoo. We pile into our charter bus, our second home in Mumbai, and we take off for the first of many sightseeing tours through the crowded streets!

Our first stop is a beautiful, small Jain temple. Before entering, we are told that the Jains are among the oldest religious minorities in India (where 85% of the population is Hindu) and are currently often compared to the stereotype of American Jews because they tend to be among the wealthiest and most philanthropic in India. We are greeted by swathed fabrics of every color and detailed sculptures of elephants, guards and other figures all fancily outfitted and bejeweled. Moving in further we enter a small sanctuary that contains gilded doors and columns, a domed ceiling depicting the planets and other astrological scenes, and congregants scattered about with random accoutrement including dry rice and step stools acting as miniature tables. Most obvious to all of us are the (inverted) swastikas…everywhere. This is the first time that most of us learn about the symbol’s long history for the Jains, and most of Asia’s religions. In this temple, the swastika is a sign of peace and well-being, and we watch a few women kneeling on the floor slowly crafting swastikas out of the rice on their step stools. Though the symbol has always meant something very different to us as Jews, I slowly start to feel what these congregants are feeling, serenity. The temple is nothing if not a peaceful retreat on a typical chaotic Mumbai road, and that is a real coup in a city like this.

The next stop is the Hanging Gardens, another surprisingly tranquil spot. I am surprised to see such a large patch of green in a city that I’ve decided is anything but (justified or not). Topiaries are playfully shaped into life-size horses and elephants while archways invite people onto every inch of lawn for respite, a common theme I’m beginning to see in India. The gardens ‘hang’ over a main reservoir and serve as one of the highest points in the city, making it an ideal spot for catching the sunset and views of the distant western shore.

We cross the street to enter Kamala Nehru Park which offers equally amazing views of notable high rises along a different shoreline. We are impressed but immediately make a beeline for some shade to watch children playing on the tri-level “Old Woman’s Shoe” from the fairy tale.

Mani Bhavan is our next stop. This mansion was the residence for the great Mahatma Gandhi in Mumbai between 1917 and 1934 and now serves as a memorial, museum and library. We are treated to four stories of books, statues, photos and a 30-piece miniature figurine depiction of Gandhi’s life story. Starting from the fateful day he was traveling as a lawyer in South Africa and booted from the first class car to which he held a ticket, to his famous non-violent movement that inspired MLK Jr. and America’s own Civil Rights Movement, to his death in 1948. Out on the sidewalk, I am already thinking of a display inside with a letter from Albert Einstein to Gandhi praising him for his great work and I’m wishing I’d been born a century earlier to have witnessed it all firsthand.

Last stop of the day and all we can swing is a drive by for a photo op, but nobody wants to miss the legendary Dhobi Ghat, the largest outdoor laundry service, where clothes come from all over Mumbai in the morning, get sorted, flogged clean by stone in individual pens, dried, resorted and returned to the correct address by nightfall. In a city of over 20 million people, this system continues to work flawlessly and has been studied by Harvard students for its ability to run so efficiently. There are only 12 of us to keep track of and after a day of sightseeing, I feel as beat as that laundry!

Jessica Gronich

Dinner Reception

India International Center

Thursday, March 4

After almost two full days of travel via airplane and bus, our group was certainly in the mood for a comfortable sit-down dinner and fresh air. Fortunately, our dinner reception at the India International Center on the evening of Thursday, March 4th, our first night in Dehli, provided just that. We arrived at the center a little bit past six and were delighted to see a host of beautiful gardens, walkways and pictures of various icons of 20th century Indian history on the way in. The building was multifaceted and provided the feeling of being a combination of a ecumenical religious and cultural center. The reception itself was held on the third floor balcony, which provided a beautiful glimpse of the well-developed neighborhood and a sense of openness which would set the tone for the interchanges to follow. Our hosts were a series of local journalists, managing editors, teachers, diplomatic officers, religious and business leaders.

 Three such notables were alumni of previous project Interchange trips. The most familiar face to us was the Deputy Chief of Mission at the Israeli embassy, Eli Belotsercorsky, whom we had just spoken to along with the Israeli Ambassador Mark Sofer at our hotel. A delicious buffet style dinner was served and rather than trying to combine all of the expertise and perspectives at one table, we broke up into at least eight tables of six or so guests.


Similarly to our experience at the American Consulate General’s house in Mumbai, we made a concerted effort to speak with as many of our hosts and local guests as possible, gleaning invaluable information about Indian newspapers, the business community, trilateral relations with the US and Israel, and the religious affairs of the day. Dinner and dessert lasted a good three hours and everyone involved shared in a memorable night of delicious food, dialogue, cross cultural learning and friendly exchanges.

Mark Elman